徳川義宣著，“じゃがたら再訪記（その一）”， 葵 ‐ 徳川美術館だより，第41号，平成１３年６月１日，徳川美術館広報課
第42号（平成１３年10月１日）の（その二）および第43号の（平成１4年1月１日）の（その三），それぞれマレーシアおよびシンガポールに關する記事は，本ホームページには含まれない。
Yoshinobu Tokugawa (au), "Revisit Java (Part 1)", Aoi - Tokugawa Art Museun News Letter, No.41, 2001.6.1. Tokugawa Art Museum Public Relations Office
Articles abut Malaysia and Singapore in (Part 2) and (Part 3) published on 2001.10.1 and 2002.1.1, respectively, are not included in this homepage.
じゃがたら再訪記(その一)
厚い外套とマフラーは成田空港の手荷物一時預り所に預けて，薄い夏服の下に着こんでゐた上下の厚い下着は機内のトイレで脱ぎました。今年の二月二十五日，到着したジャカルタ空港の気温は摂氏三十二度。高分子化学・ポリマー学者の井口正俊博士が出迎へて下さいました。
財団法人尾張徳川黎明会を昭和六年に創立し，徳川美術館を作った祖父徳川義親は，大正十年マレーとジャワに旅しました。続いて昭和四年にもジャワのバンドンで開かれた太平洋学術会議に出席するためジャワへ旅し，マレーへも行き，戦時中はマレー南方方面軍政顧問として昭和十七年二月から二年半，同方面へ赴任して，シンガポールの博物館の館長を務めました。この大正十年と昭和四年の時の旅行記を，祖父は『じゃがたら紀行』として出版しましたが，何せもう市中からはなくなってゐたので，昭和五十五年に中公文庫で復刻しました。
インドネシアのボゴールの研究所で活躍してをられる井口博士はこの本を読んで，七十年以上も前のジャワを語る貴重な記録で，一日本人が眼に触れた景物や人々の暮らしぶりを綴った紀行文としても素晴しいと惚れ込み，英訳本を作って自費出版されました。その博士の強いお勧めもあって，ジャワ・マレー・シンガポールと祖父の足跡を再訪してみることにしたのです。
インドネシア，と言ってもジャワ島内だけ五泊の旅ですが，ホテル・レストラン・訪問先・交通手段の全てを井口博士が完璧に準備して下さったので，私はただそのスケジュール通りに動くだけ，こんなに楽で贅沢な旅はありませんでした。
到着したのはもう夕刻でしたから，昔はバタヴィアと言った今のジャカルタ見物はあと廻しにして，翌朝車で「ホテルボロブドール」出発，小一時間でボゴールの植物園に着きました。
この町はバタヴィアより標高が少し高く，住み心地がよいのでオランダの東印度総督が官邸を置き，ボイテンゾルフ(莫愁郷)と呼んだところで，オランダ人はここに二十万坪(約七十ヘクタール)の大植物園を作り，世界一の熱帯植物研究所としました。戦時中日本軍はジャワ島を占領し，中井博士が所長になられ，大きな樹木を用材にしようとの軍の要請を拒み，学術研究施設として見事に護り通されました。祖父義親がその後ろ盾になってゐたのだろうと井口博士は推定してをられましたが，確証はまだありません。
井口博士のお宅でお茶を頂き，車でバンドンに向か途中，峠の茶園で一休みしました。数百ヘクタールはあらうかと言ふ茶畑でしたが，かなりの急傾斜地まで密植されてゐるのに機械の入る畦道はありません。さすが南国でまだ二月と言ふのに新芽も吹いてゐるのですが，茶摘みは全部手作業!大変な労力，と思ったら売店の紅茶がとても安く感じられて土産に買ひ込みました。
バンドンでは研究所のスタッフ数人と夕食を共にし，翌日インスティテュート・オブ・テクノロジーと言ふインドネシアで一番の理工科大学を訪れました。アートのコースもあって絵画や彫刻・陶磁なども製作してゐました。この大学が昭和四年の太平洋学術会議場となったところで，高床式三連入母屋造とでも言っジャワ風の大きな建物が，オランダの建築技術，合板木造ドームで建てられてゐました。一九二九年にここで国際学術会議が開かれたとは素晴らしいことです。
日本では近年，とかく植民地を経営した欧米諸国や日本は悪者，植民地化された国や人々は一方的に虐げられ搾取された被害者と言った単純な二律背反的歴史観が唱へられますが，とんでもない，ひとつの社会形態がマイナス面ばかりと言ふことはあり得ない，必ずプラス面もあると言ふ原則がよくわかります。
翌日はジョクジャカルタへ行き有名な仏教遺跡ボゴールロブドゥールやヒンドゥ遺跡プランバナンへも行きました。祖父が訪れた頃はまだ遺石の塊りに過ぎなかったプランバナンも，井口博士が「三次元ジグゾウパズル」と評された難題をかなり解き明かして復原が進められてゐました。この二つの遺跡見学で残念だったのは蠅よりもうるさく顔の前や体中にまとはりつきまとって来た物売りです。帽子・団扇・パンフレット・・・・・・。せめて屋台を構へて声をかけてくる程度だったら，本当はパンフや帽子も買ひたかったのですが，一つでも買ったら大変な騒ぎになりさうなので全部ふり切ってしまひました。おかげで赤道直下の太陽に焼かれて，五日後には頭の皮が剥けてしまいました。
ジャカルタに戻って夕食にレストランへ行きました。と突然，戦時中疎開先で数回聞き唄ったことのある，「どこか南の島の歌」の歌詞とメロディーが五十七年ぶりに頭の中に甦って来ました。「もしかして・・・・・・」と考へ，バンドにリクエストしてみたら，喜んで唄ってくれました。ジャワの古い民謡ださうです。「ラササーヤン・・・・・・」頬笑みと言ふ意味だと聞いたやうに思ひますが・・・・・・。
さう，ジャワでは仏様も男も女も，頬笑みがいつもとっても魅力的です。
(徳川美術館館長徳川義宣)
Revisiting Jagatara (Part 1)
Translated by Masatoshi Iguchi
I deposited my thick overcoat and muffler at Narita Airport's luggage storage
and took off my thick underwear which I wore under my thin summer clothes in the
restroom on the plane. On the 25th February, the temperature at Jakarta Airport
was 32 degrees Celsius. Dr. Masatoshi Iguchi, a polymer chemist, came to see me.
My grandfather, Yoshichika Tokugawa, who founded the Owari
Tokugawa Reimeikai Foundation in 1931 and established the Tokugawa Art Museum,
travelled to Malaya and Java in 1921. Subsequently, in 1929, he visited Java to
attend the Pacific Science Conference held in Bandung, and continually visited
to Malaya. During the War, for two and half years from February 1947, he went to
Singapore as an advisor for the Southern Area - Military Administration and
served as the director of the Museum. He combined the travelogues of 1921 and
1929 and published as "Jagatara Kikau (Journeys to Java) " but because the book
became no longer available in town, it was reprinted in Chuko-Bunko Paperback in
1980.
Dr. Iguchi, who is active at a research institution in Bogor,
Indonesia, evaluated this book as a precious record of more than seventy years
ago in which the sceneries and people's life that touched a Japanese visitor and
published an English translation at his own expense. With his strong
recommendation, I had decided to trace the footsteps of my grandfather in Java
Malay and Singapore.
It was a short trip of five days only within Java Island, not
Indonesia but, since Dr. Iguchi had perfectly prepared the itinerary, including
the transportation, accommodation, restaurants, places to visit and everything,
I just moved on the schedule, never been so easy and luxurious.
As it was already evening when I arrived, I we postponed the sightseeing of
Jakarta, the city which was used to be called Batavia. Next morning, starting
“Hotel Borobudur” by car, we arrived at the Bogor Botanical Garden within a
matter of one hour.
This town is a place where a governor of the Dutch East Indies had built the
official residence and called it Buitenzorg (Care-free village), as it was
located slightly higher in altitude than Batavia and a comfortable to live. They
built a great botanical garden of about 70 hectares and made the town to be the
best botanical research centre in the world. During the time of Japanese
occupation, Dr. Nakai who served as the director perfectly protected the Garden
against the Japanese army that wanted to cut down and use the trees for lumber.
Dr. Iguchi assumes Yoshichika, my grandfather, was behind, although unverified.
We had tea at Dr. Iguchi's house and, on the way to Bandung
by car, took a rest at the tea house on the mountain pass. It was a tea
plantation of several hundred hectares, densely planted up to the steep slope,
so there was no path for machinery. Although it was still February, shoots were
coming out in this tropical country. All tea picking was done by hand! I thought
the tea sold at the shop was very cheap for the hard job and bought many packs
for souvenir.
In Bandung, we had dinner with the staff of the Institute of Technology and next
day visited the Institute, the best college of science and technology in
Indonesia. The faculty of art was also there, where they made paintings,
sculptures, and ceramics. This college, used in 1929 as the venue of the Pacific
Science Conference, had a large building of Javanese style, say of raised-floor
three-layer gabled structure, which was constructed with Dutch construction
technology as a plywood wooden dome. It is significant that an international
academic conference was held here in 1929. In recent years in Japan, a simple
antinomic view of history that Western countries and Japan which held colonies
were devils and colonised countries and people were the victims of exploitation
is voiced but such a view is absurd. The above is a typical example to show the
principle that one form of society bears not all negative sides but positive
sides.
Next day, we went to Yogyakarta and visited the famous
Buddhist ruins of Borobudur and Hindu ruins of Prambanan. Prambanan, the most of
which was still a mass of stone remains when my grandfather visited, has been
restored by solving difficult problems which Dr. Iguchi described as a
"three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle." What was nuisance at these two places was the
vendors of hats, fans, brochures and so on who clung to my face and all around
my body, louder than flies. I wished to buy a hat and some brochures, only if
they called out from stalls, but just passed through, lest I should be
surrounded by crowds. As a result, I was scorched by the equatorial sun and
after five days my scalp peeled off.
Back in Jakarta, we went to a restaurant for dinner. Suddenly the lyrics and
melody of "Somewhere in the South", which I had heard and sang fifty-seven years
ago in a place where I evacuated during the war, came back to my mind. “Is it
real?” In response to my request, the band pleased to sang it, which they said
was an old Javanese folk song. "Rasa sayan..." I thought I heard the phrase
meant smiles.
Well, in Java, the smiling faces of Buddha, men and women were
always charming.
(Yoshinobu Tokugawa, Director, Tokugawa Art Museum)